How To Install 2 Way Light Switch
Introduction
This FAQ has been produced to explain the different types of light switches, circuits and terminologies that are used in modern 24-hour interval lighting installations. Ranging from simple ane way switches to more advanced keypads that are used in dwelling house automation systems such every bit Lutron.
Any electrical wiring should be washed by a qualified electrician. We are not electricians and have taken all the diagrams from the instructions that are supplied with the products we sell. Basic safety procedures should e'er be followed such as switching off the mains supply before commencing whatever work. The maximum current rating should also be adhered to; this is usually 6 to ten amps per switch for on/off switches and for dimmer switches its 250W or 400W. LEDs oftentimes need to exist de-rated, for example the Varilight 5-Pro is rated a 120W for LED and 400W for incandescent with a maximum of 10 LEDs. These ratings differ with 1 gang, 2 gang and 3 gang versions.
If y'all're attempting to wire anything more complicated like upgrading a 4 gang calorie-free switch to a 4 gang dimmer switch it may be worth taking a quick photo first just in-case you lot get muddled up with the wires and demand to revert back.
Wiring a Ane Way Switch
A one way lite switch has two terminals which is a common marked as COM or C. The mutual is for the live wire that supplies the input voltage to the switch. The other final is marked as L1 and is the output to the light fixture.
When you lot're wiring decorative light switches such equally chrome or stainless steel etc, you'll find that the switch volition also take an L2 concluding which ways it's a 2 way switch. If yous're circuit is only one mode, you can ignore this last and it volition still work. This is because ii mode switches tin can also be used on one style circuits. Manufacturers don't make decorative 1 way switches.
Wiring a Ii Way Switch
2 fashion switching means yous can switch the same light fixture from ii switches that are located in different sides of a room. Two way switches have a COM terminal every bit well as L1 and L2 terminals.
- When L1 is off L2 would exist on.
- When L1 is on L2 would be off.
At that place are ii wiring options for this:
More advanced dimmer switches similar Varilight Eclique and Lightwave RF have an Southward terminal instead. The South terminal tin only exist linked up to a corresponding slave and won't work with an ordinary ii mode switch. Here is a wiring example of a Lightwave RF Gen1 dimmer switch shown from behind:
Intermediate Switch Wiring
Intermediate switching is similar to two style only allows a third switch to be integrated. An example of this would be having ane switch at the bottom of a staircase, one at the elevation and one in the centre. It's not known equally three manner switching because you can too add together more switches for four way switching or more than.
Intermediate switches have terminals marked L1, L2, L3 and L4. Check out the diagram beneath that shows how to way a three style switch:
Two Fashion Dimming
Two style dimming allows you to dim a lite fixture from two locations. You can't utilize ordinary rotary dimmer switches to do this considering you could potentially dim the lite downward to ten% with one dimmer, then walk over to the other dimmer and endeavour to dim the low-cal to below 0%. Or vice-versa you could be attempting to burnish the light higher up 100%. This would cause major instability on the circuit, like the time when the ghost busters crossed the beams!
Y'all tin have a dimmer switch and an on/off switch on the sameexcursion. The dimmer volition practise the dimming and the two fashion switch will exist able to switch it on and off. If you've dimmed the lights to 50% the switch will keep switching it and off at that level until you dim it again.
Upwardly until fairly recently 2 way dimming was quite expensive, it could be washed using Lutron Rania until they got discontinued. With the arrival of Varilight 5-Pro multi-point dimmers (formally Eclique) and Lightwave Smart switches, this is at present easy to do and doesn't cost too much. Varilight requires a combination of master and slave dimmers for it to piece of work. While the Lightwave Smart series dimmers tin be programmed via their App to perform two way or even 3 fashion dimming.
Wireless Switches
Wireless switches usually require an additional receiver for them to work. The receiver is positioned in the ceiling void near to the lights. It receives an RF (Radio Frequency) signal from the switch to tell the receiver what to do. If you've already got wires in place you can still use a wireless switch by terminating the wires. Brands like Rako and Lutron have their own wireless systems. Lightwave discontinued their Gen1, Connect Series.
Wireless switches used to be battery powered, Ener-J take taken this a step farther with their kinetic switches. Using the energy generated from pressing the switch, which is plenty to ship the indicate to the receiver. The receiver then switches the lights and are available in dimmable or not dimmable versions, besides as a Wi-Fi version for smart telephone command. They tin either exist screwed or stuck to a surface and take IP65 rated versions which are platonic for bathrooms.
Smart Phone Dimming
If you want to control your lights from a smart phone, the easiest and nearly toll effective way of doing this is with Lightwave. All you demand is a master dimmer switch, the Lightwave RF Wi-Fi hub and the App which is free to download. The new Smart Series dims LEDs effortlessly and provides timer and scene setting functions. You can besides command smart ability sockets, heating controls and other Lightwave add together-ons.
Lutron QS Keypad Wiring
One of the principal advantages of using a home automation system over traditional dimmer switches is that y'all can replace those large clunky looking double plate, 3 and four gang dimmer switches with trendy looking keypads. Lutron keypads have upward to 10 buttons every bit well as dim up and dim downward. The buttons can be programmed to create lighting scenes of your choosing. Hither is an example of an engraved 5 button Lutron SeeTouch keypad in satin nickel with black buttons.
Once you've decided on the function of each scene you can become the buttons engraved by completing a form and sending back to Lutron, this is included in the price of the keypad. You could either have something elementary similar Scene 1, Scene 2 etc or attempt something more than adventurous like 'All On', 'Boob tube Watching', 'Political party Fourth dimension', 'Reading' and 'All Off' like in my instance. A scene tin can exist a mixture of multiple lighting circuits that are all fix to different dimming levels. 'TV Watching' could dim your main LED downlights down to 10%, your wall lights downwards to thirty%, your cove LED strip lights downward to l% and even switch a table lamp on, all at the touch of one button.
If you're considering installing a total home automation such every bit Lutron Grafik Eye QS or Energi Savr Node (known as ESN), the respective keypads which are known as SeeTouch need to be wired totally differently to any of the traditional switches that nosotros've mentioned. Firstly they require a 24V DC supply which can be taken straight from the Grafik Eye or ESN. The keypads can as well control electronic blinds which are too available from Lutron.
Using the recommended Lutron control cablevision which has 2 pairs of cables, one pair is for power and the other pair is for signal. Boosted keypads and other components can and then be linked from one to the other using the QS Link terminal. You lot can even link a Grafik Eye QS to an Energi Savr Node and take them both on the aforementioned system.
Lighting Circuits – Loop In, Loop Out
The favoured way of wiring recessed downlights is using the loop in, loop out method. This is a form of parallel wiring that has one cablevision (usually twin and globe 6242Y) containing the live, neutral and earth wires looping in and so out of leach light plumbing equipment. This is an alternative to the traditional junction box system, it uses less cable and is faster to complete.
Many downlights have a loop in, loop out terminal block fastened to them. For example the Ansell iCage has the largest i which was specifically designed for this blazon of wiring. A popular feature for downlights is push button-fit terminals which also have loop in, loop out terminals. Some have them directly fastened to the downlight and some come with wiring connectors. The prototype below shows the loop-in, loop-out wiring method:
When installing downlights that don't have their own connexion system, many installers create their own past using a Click Menstruum Connector. With this connector you wire the smaller male connector into the downlight and the respective female person connector into your loop in, loop out excursion. And then you simply plug the downlight into the circuit and continue the process with the next ones.
Other downlights like the Aurora 1000 Series and Click Ovia Nano are supplied with their own wiring connectors. The male connector is already pre-wired into the downlight so half of the piece of work is already done for you. Another advantage of using Flow Connectors is if the downlight fails you tin unplug information technology and get it replaced yourself without having to go an electrician back in to disconnect it and so reconnect the replacement.
Lighting Circuits – Series Wiring
Series wiring is mainly used with LED lights that are powered from the aforementioned LED driver. It is normally used with smaller LED downlights or with LED ground lights that are constant electric current. The nearly popular abiding current ratings are 350ma or 700ma. This diagram below shows how it's done:
Although many of the LED downlights we offer are abiding current, they are each supplied with their own LED commuter with is either directly fastened to them or trails behind them like an quondam fashioned halogen and low voltage transformer combination. If you're wiring a mains supply into each LED commuter individually it would exist classed every bit parallel wiring and can exist washed using the loop in, loop out technique.
Wiring a Downlight
If you're upgrading an existing halogen downlight y'all'll virtually likely either have mains voltage GU10 or low voltage MR16 (GU5.3) halogens. Low voltage halogens will have a transformer; this will demand to be asunder equally it will no longer be required. The only reason y'all'd need to keep the transformer is if you wanted to use MR16 LEDs that operate on Air-conditioning, this is a less popular option equally you need to make sure the existing transformer is uniform with the LEDs and if y'all're dimming them, you'll need to make sure that the MR16 LED, transformer and dimmer switch are all compatible. Many installers become for the GU10 or integrated option as their are less components to consider and it oftentimes costs less.
Hole Cut Out Size
If you're replacing existing downlights y'all'll want your new ones to take a similar hole cut out size otherwise you lot'll either demand to make the holes bigger or make them smaller (yeah I said smaller) which would involve re-plastering your ceiling and re-cutting the holes. Matching the hole sizes is always a fundamental conclusion in the selection procedure.
Unless specifically stated downlights are wired in parallel, downlights are only unremarkably wired in serial when multiple lights are being powered from the aforementioned LED commuter. Depending on which type of downlight you choose ,you may need to set provisions to earth them.Hither are two examples that explain how to wire a downlight, one is for a GU10 fire rated downlight and some other explaining how to wire an integrated LED downlight, each 1 has it's own earthing provisions:
Wiring a Fire Rated Downlight – Ansell iCage
The Ansell has got a large loop in, loop out terminal block that allows 2x ane.5mm twin and earth cables to wired into ane downlight and into the next one. The iCage is supplied with both a GU10 and a GU5.iii low voltage lamp holder.
When used with the GU10 lamp holder, the downlight is mains voltage and must be earthed. This is classified as a Course I production. If yous're using the depression voltage GU5.three lamp holder the downlight is classified equally Course III and doesn't crave an earth.
Download the fitting instructions for the Ansell iCage: CLICK HERE
Wiring an Integrated LED Downlight - Halers H2 Pro
Some integrated LED downlights similar the market leading Halers H2 Pro from Collingwood Lighting are SELV which stands for Safety Actress Depression Voltage. This means that the voltage of the LED driver is below 12V AC or 30V DC. Voltages below 20V can't usually be felt past the human body and are considered harmless.
SELV lite fittings don't require an earth; they are classified as Class 3 synthetic products. The LED driver for the H2 Pro is also double insulated which means information technology has two layers of insulation around the live components, this also means it doesn't need to be earthed. The DC output voltage is separated from the AC supply voltage.
Double insulated products are classified equally Grade Two and can be identified by this symbol:
The H2 Pro has a alive and neutral wire coming off the LED commuter, you'll need additional junction or connector blocks to wire them. Past adding a Click Period connector y'all tin can create your own loop in, loop out system as mentioned in the previous loop in, loop out wiring section.
Download the fitting instructions for the Halers H2 Pro: CLICK HERE
Wiring a Spotlight
This video featuring a Philips LED spotlight shows how to install an LED spotlight using their 'Click Gear up' arrangement although many of the same rules apply.
Source: https://www.downlights.co.uk/faq-wire-light-switch.html
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